Fashion point of view of the edge of the designer2016-07-21 23:07:56 345 ℃
Come into fashion topicVejasSpecial before, think there are half a month before "GQThe magazine WeChat public platformGQChina has not had time to share out the four big draft, so today added a push to share with you this part of the content.
The starting point of this article is a reality that we see less optimistic: whenVetementsAnd other brands to occupy the center of attention, includingAckermann Gareth, Pugh HaiderIndependent designers, seems to quickly on the main battlefield of the fashion hides -- we call for "fashion designers in the circle of the marginalisation phenomenon". So, this paper tries to cut into the centrifugal phenomenon is the whole story, the motivation of the design, "compatibility" and consumer culture flourishing and iteration is in our opinion the possible causes of the "Marginalization".
Editor: He Xiaobin He Xiaobin
GQ Digital for
"Stern warrior, from soldiers of the future" -- try to invent such a fashion identity. You do not seem to be too easy to produce a cordial corresponding in an instant. A few years or just a few seasons ago, a similar figure of speech is still popular among fashion bloggers, and in a blink of an eye today, where it points toHaidAckermann erFashion image, collaborationVan Noten DriesSuch as digital quite famous, very high level of independent designers, has almost quickly and thoroughly in the fashion of the main battlefield of the hides. Today's unprecedented hot fashion discussion and the pursuit of the atmosphere, they have apparently been in a marginalized position.
When we can not help but explore the causes of this phenomenon, to find out the "marginalized", then it is the first to sort out what is the core of the. This question is not difficult, just under the sign of the youth culture, tide, image but also count is fiery moment, has well and truly in the fashion level occupation heights and infiltration of industry system, perhaps one of the hiddenLook totalAnd the main products of the two major marketing logic - the latter and the signs of a single product(piece signature)Are essentially different, it is more close to "fashion explosion" concept, is deliberately created deliberately tendency -- the potential design drawn to the young people dress habits led directly to the series and fame and other bundled with a high degree of image more from the designer's personal preference of, and unauthorized will this spirit in the works in the play to the extreme, each run amok. The design of such a strong sense of self is clearly not to leave a gap in the other style of intervention, it is extremely difficult to imagine that you willJacquemusHard shirt fabric, stereo projecting version andVetementsLoose the extensive outline of the overlap, but not to say that theVan Noten DriesThe embroidered robe or even a jewelry necklace into the modelling, this is far from a mix, but rather nondescript. So once the core is established, it will not talk about the media's joint incitement, centrifugal has quickly began to function, not too many seasons, we are concerned about another part of the design will be in the edge of the position.
DHL Tee VetementsSuccess is clearly a representative of the single product marketing events;
Even more ironic is that this "Marginalization" of the phenomenon, it is those who claim to "create" fashion. It let us wake up, behind the whole set of "Marginalization" judgment, the implicit premise is we've put themselves and their own preferences in virtually placed in a core position, this is not a good signal. Back five to ten years,Van Noten Haider, Ackermann Lanvin, Helmut, Lang DriesIn the most prosperous years can also be in such as before"Claire Marie"accessories directorTomasi Hill TaylorGuest of a public fashion wardrobe in harmony, their designs without not personally practice with for comfort, aesthetic harmony garment spirit, their performance in the material and fabric often also can reach the same goal by different routes is formed in each other's lap in the aesthetic perception of the gas, pay attention to body, design, outfit who have been involved in the process also has reinforced the fashion of the subtle and elegant and achieve continuous progress. When once played in the designers had to be on showLook totalBackground to buckle and in exchange for a street scene re take the "show", but a speed competition only "trendy" dress environment around. We also have reason to believes it may be that they do not want to drop a muddy ditch.
Van Noten Dries 2017 spring summer men's series;
Just released yesterday.Van Noten Dries2017 spring and summer men's series, we continue to see in recent yearsVan Noten DriesWorks are highlighted in a series of functions and the level trend, namely men filled with more style jacket profile and skill development of jacquard fabric, women's series is from the daily dress of dark to bright silk, the pendant rich dress shows a complete the span of a high degree of stability and the overall situation isNoten VanSee very heavy. "I hope that we can be prepared for a variety of situations, so that the brand can operate without my circumstances - as a responsible fashion designer, you need to go to work. If the company is only me (to take charge of) to make him survive, that would be a bit selfish." And he also spoke of the safety value Dewei Pu company in a series of creative staff, and hope the Indian workers local craftsmanship keep determination. from, in the past two or three years.Noten VanMr. frequently mentioned in the interview this persistent, not narrow and fashion social responsibility, it can be said that this is from the design or brand management of the pace are thoroughly demonstrated out.
Pugh Gareth, left: 2016 autumn and winter; right: 2008 autumn and winter;
Another younger generation,Pugh Gareth, shortly after his debutANDAMAward (supported by the French National Association for the development of fashion art in the international fashion design awards) andOwens RickBlessing, supplemented by Gothic Department exaggerated makeup of skirt shape also makes his name was quickly in social networks spread, and his story now seems some "angels with dirty faces, and now in the" meaning -- a new generation of "London boy name has been referred to pass as the culmination of dayAnderson J.W.,PughDesigned to discuss the heat is also not as big as before. Back to the recent works, the 2016 winter series pay more inherited the fascination with the aesthetics of violence, in the silence of the lambs as inspiration for the introduction, and in the design of the control.PughThen mentionedMontana ClaudeandMugler ThierryName two as the world in the eighties and nineties, the concept of fashion, the concept of fashion leaders. In the drama sense profile and expression of tension have made great contributions, under its own brand of vintage clothing has a higher value to the collection. Recent point of view,Pugh"Weakening" seems like is intended to, in the commercial nature of the stronger practical garment equipped with his own artistic ideal, it may let it go further, and put it into the current capital of the world, compared to the previous often ridicule "has not done enough to graduation design" blindly exaggerated, it seems they are greater ambitions. Above these, if out of consideration to the commanding heights of the trend of the pinnacle of the geographical location of the stenosis, and fighting to kill points a cup of soup than retreat one step operation their sperm are adept at the field and for the entire territory of the realization of development, and also is a high chess, chess wonderful step.
In addition, the impact of the timing on the point that the young man can not be without mentioning. fromAnderson J.W.The arrival ofLoewereachGvasalia DamnaIn charge ofBalenciagaAnd in recent years the luxury goods group through the market observation and deal with the traditional high-end brand growth stagnation, weakness and stimulate young people demand for the purchase of necessary and more boldly meet dew joints into the famous fashion house, that can be called is not seeking opportunities, again and again for edge and core switch and shuffling may occur at any time.
Chalayan Hussein is located in the London store;;
Of course, the impact of the group on a designer is not only limited to its inclusion in the system, the integrity of the capital chain to determine the extent of a brand's future.Oliver ShayneIn charge ofBy Air HoodBy 2014LVMHAwards received 100 thousand euros of funds, then the men moved from New York to Florence.Uomo Pitti, although this move only in 2015 winter a single series of realization, but trying to phase equilibrium of street gene with high fashion design tendency and ambition is quite obvious after the season began to expose, materials, colors and levels have taken place in the richness of jump,Oliver ShayneI also said in an interview after the show, he was in the experience of Italy quality production resources and the traditional fashion system of love and the feelings of inspiration. Such due to the investment and financing and make the direction of the adjustment of the examples are not uncommon, and for most of the independent brand, on the one hand, they and the group supports the economic chain to coincide, on the other hand also intends to control the number of stores and production speed, resulting in funding over a long period of time in the steady state and an independent road above, now in the group and group derived from the strength of the same stage living in the corner, is the economic base of the decision situation.
Japanese fashion designer REI Kawakubo at the end of last year to accept British "Guardian's remarks revealed in front of" Marginalization "are not all come from the fashion industry, some designers and capital strength of the bent, with strong words to seize power, it clearly is a consumer culture under the reasonable product:" now people have a kind of emotional burnout, they just want to buy cheap, fast clothes, and others look like a cool and happy. In the past, the enthusiasm for changing the status quo and the intense anger is fading." The importance of expressing self and self is always the core pursuit of people's purchasing fashion, which is wrapped in the back of every single transaction.Look totalAnd the main product easily hook away souls consciousness is reflected in the absence of burnout. Of course, REI Kawakubo may still underestimate the people in order to obtain recognition are willing to pay the price, in the face of clear and simple happy, whether cheap or fast enough to disregard, when a cotton hoodie with topic pricing will be set to the far higher than beyond the extent of heavy embroidered shirts, and may still cause worldwide buying, stock, you will be able to find that all this has occurred. Many media and communication even deep joy, reverse reaction by consumer culture the control mouthpiece, "change the status quo of intense anger" completely absent.
Process details of Van Noten Dries
Where someone is a circle, circle and the circle and arc, core and marginal, not to mention in Bong "flower hundred days red" in the fashion industry in good motto. On the design of the birth of the best effort, maybe it is, indeed, a turntable, in a certain range, who may be in a capital flow and the audience cares for, but we still hope that this is a fan by knowledgeable and can be replaced to cover a large area of the turntable, was worth trusting you should stay longer, more not allow forces entrenched in the disk of the central and pointer, we never have no intention to do not need to condemn the specific design, not to hurt the formation of not guilty, but in any kind of authoritarian scenarios are not clear, let alone in such a door on the creative and diverse aesthetic of the profession.
* [original version published here, see the official version of the end connection]
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