The former Double Eleven Women's Drings, I don't want to participate in 618 now, it is more important to live long than being the first one2022-06-24 06:02:01 4 ℃
Inman is a women's clothing brand. With the development of Internet retail, it has won the 2013 Tmall Double 11 women's sales champion. That day, Inman's sales sold 126 million yuan, the entire Tmall's GMV (total transaction) was only 35 billion. That night, the founders of Inman, Fang Jianhua and Alibaba's helm, Ma Yun and Zhang Yong (Xiaoyaozi), and witnessed the continuous rise of the number. The following year, as the only case of women's clothing brand, Inman was written into the prospectus of Alibaba's IPO.
After a lapse of eight years, Fang Jianhua posted an article- "618" lying down ", no longer play". He calls on the platform or the brand, abandon the layer of promotional routine, and don't stare at GMV anymore. Behind the number that has been repeatedly rushed, it is a higher and higher return rate, tired merchants, consumers, and There is a difficult business environment under the epidemic.
Over the past ten years, the women's track track has changed. It is a must -have place for e -commerce platform wrestling, and it was also the wealthy soil of Internet brands. In the era of the sectaries of the Vanity of Live E -commerce, the women's clothing also supported the original ambitions of Wei Ya and Sydney. The times have set off waves and waves. Inman, like many other "Amoy brands", once established in the tide, but also faced the catch -up and transcendence of the latecomers.
Now, Fang Jianhua no longer wants to be the first. How can he stay on the court and not be squeezed out and can live his own characteristics, which is his concern.
The following is his telling--
Wen | Cao Mohan
Edit | Zhao Lei
Operation | Painting Fire
"Lie flat" 618, difficult survival account
When we posted that article, we were waiting for the end of the epidemic. There is really no way.
Opening your eyes every day, nothing is done, that is, the cost of 700,000 to 800,000, the rent of offline stores, the salary of employees, the cost of inventory and storage, etc., we all need to pay for it.
At that time, Shanghai had not resumed the order of production and life. The shops we were there were still suffering. There were more than 100 offline stores across the country to stop business. Less inventory. There are also many cities that can not be shipped online, and the sales of a city in Shanghai accounted for 10%of Inman's entire online market.
In this case, 618 is here.
The objective environment is placed there: the epidemic lasts too long, everyone's income is affected, and consumers' confidence and ability are declining. Even if consumption, it is concentrated on rigid demand. The category of chai oil and salt, non -rigidity does not want to buy it. After all, there are few opportunities to go out, and there are fewer social occasions and needs. Slowly wear.
In order to stimulate consumption, the platform came up with the maximum promotional plan in history. For example, Tmall's platform coupon supports cross -store 300 minus 50, and the double 11 is not so strong. But when you come to the brand, the platform is not as hard as before after the antitrust, and the investment is shrinking. You will see that from last year's Double 11 to 618 this year. Whether it is Tmall, JD.com or Vipshop, basically they cannot see them. To make a lot of advertising, the subsidy for the brand is not as good as before. The cost of promotion is actually borne by ourselves, which means that the profit of participating in the promotion will be further compressed.
Now there is also a "cancer" in the clothing industry. The return rate of major platforms is very high. The proportion of refunds and returns in some platforms is 60%. That is to say, only 40 pieces of clothing can be received. This has a certain relationship with cross -store full reduction. Consumers may just buy a piece of clothing in order to make a order, which may have nothing to do with the quality and version of your brand. Although Inman's overall GMV this year rose 30%year -on -year, considering the return and refund, there were only a few points left.
These superimposed together make people think of lying flat. But when I arrived at 618, I felt that I couldn't lie flat anymore, and I couldn't waste every crisis. However, one thing is "lying flat". I and our operating team said that I do n’t engage in so many marketing gameplay. All discounts should be simple. How much does each piece of clothes fall?
▲ Fang Jianhua posted in his public account, saying that Inman was "lying flat" in this 618. Figure / WeChat public account screenshot
In the past few years, there was a lot of formulas. There were a lot of formulas, building, pulling people, and exchanging points. Everyone followed the trend. Inman has also done it, but at least I can’t understand from the perspective of ordinary consumers. I don't understand. Consumption this year is so weak, and you do this, you will persuade consumers.
Now 618 is over. This year's competition is not fierce. To put it plainly, many businesses are very difficult in the past two years. Many brands may not be supported. We have maintained their online growth, which is similar to my expectations. But offline is indeed worse than what I think, and the inventory pressure is increasing. The selling rate of Inman spring and summer is less than 60%. Some new spring products can only be sold until autumn, and the slow -selling clothes also find some online experts to help us sell it.
Last year, everyone saw that Li Jiaqi sold 106 billion yuan a night, but this could not represent the prosperity of the entire e -commerce industry, because the sales volume of the brand and the platform itself was passed on to Li Jiaqi. The sales of head anchors are mostly, but they did not make the entire plate bigger, but they just redistributed the resources in the plate.
By 618 this year, the platform did not emphasize GMV as much as in the past, especially Tmall. No sales data was not exposed, and the ranking was gone. This is also the change I hope to see most. The platform used to compete for GMV in the past, which is a symbol of the status of the rivers and lakes, but you must know that the last competition is the user's evaluation, experience, customer unit price and return rate, so that e -commerce will become healthier, instead of blindly rushing to sell sales blindly. In the end, you may not get anything. In fact, it can be felt that consumers' dependence on promotion is getting weaker. I have never bought things in 618 or Double 11 myself, and the logistics pressure is so high. I like to buy it. The impact of this year, the logistics is not good, and some needs are solved offline. I only bought one shirt and a set of vegetable artifacts online. Consumers are rational, and the platform has also become rational. For example, it starts at 8 o'clock in the evening, and it has always been allowed to grab the goods after 12 o'clock. I think this is also a good phenomenon.
As a merchant, we still hope not to let the big sales be used as a normal sales. Do not sell it before the promotion, and we are crowded in the promotion of shipments. The daily sales must be stable, so as to represent the real level of a brand. I feel that the promotion effect may be weaker than year a year, and it is continuous attenuation. This is my personal judgment. Of course, we also live on the platform and develop on the platform, and we still have to follow the rhythm of the platform, otherwise you will have no food.
▲ Fang Jianhua showed two things he bought this year. Figure / WeChat public [email protected] Old Fang
Growing from barbaric to painful transformation
Inman has eaten the Internet platform dividend. Since 2008, it was the first to make online retail clothing brands. In 2010, we did not experience the Double 11 for the first time. The system collapsed and overspended over 10,000 orders. At that time, as long as the customers complained, the Inman flagship store was deducted and closed in minutes. At that time, the discount was 50 % off the audience, and the merchant's gross profit was also very low. Everyone was working hard. We just wanted to impact GMV, and we were no exception.
In the Double 11 in 2013, Inman sold 13 billion yuan a day, and won the women's clothing sales championship that year, and became famous in the World War I. But we have prepared more than 400 million, and the pressure of cash flow is very high. The first place is to pay the price. At that time, many people did not know this brand and only saw the number and champion, but in fact we sacrificed profitable.
▲ In 2013, Inman Double Eleven event scene. Photo / Inman official website screenshot
I didn't think it was Inman's high time. When you achieve your results, you have a good sense of accomplishment, but don't be excessive, because the challenges are about to come immediately. In fact, after that, the bonus of the platform traffic touched the ceiling, and we had to develop offline.
As early as 2011, Inman has opened 20 stores offline, and no one knows. After a year, we quietly closed these stores again. By 2015, we came again, and everyone was not optimistic. At that time, a peer founder also bet with me and said that offline must not be done offline, but at the time, I insisted that the brand must go offline, and it is the problem of early death and late death.
We transformed this offline road, and it was very difficult at first, and online and offline were completely two systems.
There is no concept of space online. You can put 10,000 styles of clothes in a shop, but when you get offline, the area and location of your shop determine your rent. There are exhibitions. Therefore, offline pays more attention to series and matching, as well as visual image packaging, and online more attention to a single product can become explosive models.
The advantages of our brands are cost -effective. Many traditional brands and international brands have not yet entered the e -commerce market. Unlike all now. Then we also used the online set of online things when we were just doing offline, but soon found that the number of clothes we sold was more than traditional women's clothing brands, but sales could not be spelling. Too far, consumers come to us, maybe buy two one by one, buy 4 pieces from others, and the road of small profits is not available.
Therefore, we still have to take the brand -oriented road to transform Inman from an online original brand into a cotton -linen women's clothing brand, which focuses on the comfort of wearing. I didn't think that ZARA and HM's fast fashion impact on us. Inman has always followed the cotton and linen literary style. In the future, we just want to do this style of ceiling instead of being a ZARA or to do it. A Uniqlo, the positioning is different.
▲ Inman positioning is the main feature of cotton and linen. Photo / Eman official promotional photo
Our team once also mentioned to me that I hope to make N styles and N series, and finally I have rejected me. I am not allowed to try and error, and sometimes they will try one or two series. When they make a bleeding, they will look back and become more firm in our own style.
For example, youthy. Inman's positioning is women aged 25 to 35, but the team people think that consumers are getting younger and younger now. They are going to be 18 to 25 years old. I also asked them to try it at the time. They found that young consumers are more sensitive to prices and do not buy it. Instead, consumers of our original age will weaken.
Because most of the people aged 18 to 25 are in universities, or just out of the school, young unmarried young women who care about are beautiful rather than comfortable. They don't care so much, and value a certain style. In Man is the main comfortable cotton and linen. In fact, after the marriage has been breed, the baby will only pay more attention to the comfort of the fabric, so these requires offline to better experience. So we are all sold online, but there will be more styles online. Offline the texture of the clothes will be higher. Inman cannot cover all female consumers across the country. For example, the northern market is still the blank of Inman. The seasons and temperatures in the north and the south are different, and consumers' dressing habits and preferences are also very different.
I used to go to the northeast business trip. At that time, I went to see two or three stores. The cargo was completely wrong. It was completely unsuitable for the north to go to the north. Although shirts are the best categories of Inman, northerners rarely wear shirts in winter. Most of them wear only one bottoming shirt and a sweater, and a large down jacket outside. In the room, take off the coat directly.
The KPI I set for myself is to go to the stores next to 100 Inman every year. Only when you feel it yourself, all your decisions will not be patted in the office.
▲ Fang Jianhua is at Inman offline store. Figure / WeChat public [email protected] Old Fang
The second is the channel. How can we go to more stores? The model we use is that it is not your order, it is my brand's goods. I will pave the goods to you and return it to me. The pressure of the inventory broke the original traditional ordering model. It turned out that many franchisees have bleeds a bunch of goods. On the surface, they make money and finally make a bunch of inventory. High, the requirements for refined management are relatively high, and various data requires timely feedback, such as gross profit, selling out, and conversion rate.
Therefore, I have a request for franchisees. At least it takes at least 80s and post -90s. Relatively speaking, they are more adaptable to our new format and new retail gameplay. There is no inherent thinking and loves learning. We will help franchisees to open the store to choose the location, including how to play the lights of a shop, how to place moving lines and display, and there are a lot of attention. To ensure that the brand has only one style.
The transformation from online to offline is really painful, but you always have to go out of a new way. I don't like the word "inner volume". I have a chance at any time. At any time, which era is not rolled? Just look at it in the end. Are you rolled away by others? Or you get the other people away. See who is swimming naked and who is still on the beach. In fact, the "Amoy brand" that has grown barbaric in the same period as Inman, now more than 90%of them are dead. If the pigs on the air are just lying on the bonus, it will fall down sooner or later.
Living forever is the first more important than doing it
The epidemic that erupted in early 2020 was a difficult deal for all mankind. Each of our lives, work, mentalities, and corporate management methods are changing. Specific to the clothing industry, the entire supply chain was under pressure.
Beginning this year, the prices of cotton and down raw materials have risen. For example, cotton rose 20%at once. In addition, as a labor -intensive industry, the cost of labor is increasing at a rate of 10%each year, and fewer and fewer workers can be available. At this time, the efficiency of enterprises is crucial. If you don't want to transfer the pressure in the form of price increases to consumers, you have to do some refined management to cope with the rise in costs.
From international to domestic, too many uncertain factors may affect the survival of enterprises. The more time, the more you want to think about what you should do and what you should do.
It is the most important thing to keep the cash flow under the epidemic. At least the money on the account can afford the salary of all employees for half a year to one year, and half a year is the lowest requirement. It cannot be cut off immediately. For example, we have done a lot of invalid sales channels before. We only have small output for a long time. We must cut off in time and focus on the main channels.
▲ Inman held the 10th anniversary celebration in 2018. Picture / network
Inman's current sales are divided by online and offline, about 60 % to 40 %. If there is no epidemic, it should be able to achieve five or five. In the online channel, Tmall Taobao's share accounts for 30%and 20%of Douyin. This is our most important channel. Among them, the growth momentum of Douyin is more fierce. Everyone realizes that this is a place with a large traffic, and potential consumers are gathered here, but its ecology is unstable than Tmall.
Douyin's e -commerce ecosystem today has a bit of barbaric growth. It calculates your traffic transformation according to each second, and it must be that every merchant wants to grab traffic. But when we observe, it is not easy for the content and live broadcast to be highly realized by people, goods, and field matching. It is not too much that merchants can make money inside. But some of the well -known people can do well without starting, you have to learn.
I said a long time ago, "You will eventually destroy you." Why do you suffer? You don't understand, so keep learning. But at the same time, we must also know your boundaries. My positioning for myself is that only one thing in my life is enough, so I only make clothes and only do women's clothing, and nothing else. After graduating from the clothing design major, I have been making women's clothing. We have also prepared men's clothing, but we all gave up in the end. At that time, the team did some layout. I couldn't see it at all. The fabrics, versions, and craftsmanship could not meet my requirements, and it was not good. I feel that with my cognition, and the current team's genes, I can't do this.
The supply chain system and version of women's and menswear are completely different. It is a very specialized category. I basically did not see companies with good men's clothing and good women's clothing, and almost no such cases around the world. For example, the characteristic of Uniqlo is the basic model. It does not bias to the gender. It can be done by children's clothing, men's, and women's clothing, and there is no age distinction, because what it does is basic models.
For another example, we have not worked with Wei Ya or Li Jiaqi. The big anchor is completely driven by the price. Many merchants' own flagship stores may not be discounted, but when the anchor is there, the price may be over The flagship store is low. In this case, it is originally a user of your brand and may go directly to their live room. He trusts the big anchor, not the brand.
Each brand may have different ideas and positioning in each development stage. If you are an emerging brand, relying on Li Jiaqi and Weiya to broadcast a game, and it will be helpful at all of a sudden. But if you are a well -known brand, the price reduction is to kill chickens and eggs, which is a harm to the entire brand.
Looking back at the more than ten years of Inman, I regret more. It turned out that we made a lot of brands, more than 10, and later cut it off, and felt that we couldn't control it.
The cut -off brands must be my problem. The team's energy is not enough, and my energy is not enough. What we lack is not capital, what we are missing is the ability, the ability of the team, and the ability of the organization. At present, there are nearly a thousand employees of our group, and we can concentrate on doing the existing brands.
The two previous impact IPOs were put on hold. In fact, they are still actively filing, and there will be plans to go public in the future. But this process is not what I can lead. I only have to operate the company well and the external environment, we can't control it.
In 2015, we shouted the slogan of "Thousands of Towards the Ten Stores", which opened 10,000 Inman stores in 1,000 cities in 5 years. In fact, I didn't think so fast, and now there are only more than 500 stores in the country. Later, our thoughts changed, and slowly, let 100 companies be done with 100 companies.
This year is so difficult, Inman still wants to open 100 stores offline, and the company takes 15 million cash subsidies. Why? Because at this time, everyone is lying flat, and there are indeed many brands to close offline stores. Many shopping malls can't support it anymore, and they can only reduce rent. I think this is a good opportunity. In the past, with our brand influence, we may not be able to enter the shopping mall in the bustling areas of some cities at all or not to get the best shop, but this time is possible.
Still that point, not wasting every crisis. Some time ago, I have been restricted and I can't do anything, but now I ca n’t lie flat after the situation is over, I ca n’t wait anymore, I still have to take the initiative.
▲ Inman offline store. Photo / Inman official website
The article is original of daily characters
Infringement must be investigated
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